Sunday, 18 August 2019

An Indian 'Unindian' in India

It was a chilly Friday of January in Delhi. Much was anticipated from the trip to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, partly because it was a deviation from the usual winter shivers, and partly due to the vacation being sponsored. For a non-Indian who has lived across India, the diverse flavours in each quarter of its vast expanse will have been well-acquainted with. A North-Easterner (with mongoloid features) that I am, and having traversed the maximum of all corners of India, my being addressed ‘Unindian’ in my own soil pierces my soul at times. While Eastern India is known for sports, Western India, Rajasthan in particular, is renowned for its pompous forts. I was in to soak in the ‘in season’ of Jaisalmer. In my hometown in Manipur, I would welcome the January showers, but there I was, caged inside the four walls, to subdue the icy-cold weather with no sunshine. ‘I want to break free’, my ringtone buzzed. I picked up, not letting the song end. The voice from the other side whispered, “Meet me at the old Delhi junction at 5.25 pm”. My Ola driver dropped me right on time. I boarded from platform number 10. My friend was already seated. After a while of chit-chatting, we set our berths, side lower and upper, and rested unperturbed: the best part of a fortnight journey by train. The next morning, we hurriedly devoured the complimentary breakfast, and headed towards ‘Jaisalmer Fort’ and its vicinity. The city bewitched us with its locales of monuments constructed mainly of sandstones and lime mortar. The enchantment was all ours. At the counter, my friend gestured for two tickets with her fingers, handing over 100 bucks. The guard asked for 200 bucks more. “Why, Bhaiya?” my friend retaliated. “Madam, you seem to be accompanied by a foreigner”, quick came his response, while motioning towards my direction. I was immersed in the massive beauty all around. My friend shook me to slur a few words in Hindi. I was stunned for some seconds and replied hastily, “Main kya bolun? (What do I say?)”. The cashier smiled and handed us our tickets. In my head, I was totally unpleased. When will this conundrum end? Brushing aside my thoughts, we entered the highly embraced Fort. Once inside, we loitered around every nook and corner, and also the neighbourhood. It was mesmerizing. Every palace, temple, lake, fort, and even chabutara (raised podium) in each aisle of this city displays a grand touch of Architecture mastery with simple ‘sandstone and lime mortar’ work. Some adorn lime polish replicating polished marble. During our visit, we encountered a contractor, whose family and ancestors have worked for the Royals since ‘THIRTY-SIX’ generations. Unbelievable! I don’t know my great-great-grandfather. I was so intrigued I made a quick quid pro quo with him, his workmanship and my design. After a much accomplished period, we tried Rajasthani Ker Sangri curry (local vegetable cuisine) at the Top View restaurant, and called it a day. The chitter-chatter of the hotel guests awoke us. It was already 7.30 am the next day. The sun shone effervescently on the window panes. We ventured out, all geared up for the pre-booked adventurous Safari ride. The excitement was high to dwell in tents, while absorbing the sundry desertscape. The bumpy ride was compensated for by the experience of dunes and rides on healthy camels. The night invited with the exemplary folklore performed by local musicians. There were only five tents in the entire vastness of the desert. There was no network either. My mother needn’t be worried. She was pre-informed. Amidst the wilderness, our tent housed an amazingly hygienic attached toilet, a rare scene in Indian outskirts. The fact that I could tread this soil without a passport is a wonderful gift of being an Indian. All this beauty in diversity makes my ‘Unindian' looks a ‘Much ado about nothing’ (halfway through the iconic movie). For a sneak peek, I stepped outside. The moon hovered in the blue sky, the stars galore. Not everything is hunky dory in this life, yet each day is lived. On a happy note, we dozed off humming the melodious Rajasthani tune.

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